Trad climbing, short for traditional climbing, is the pinnacle of self‑reliance, technique, and adventure. It's a style of climbing where the climber places their own protective gear as they ascend, as opposed to sport climbing, where pre‑placed bolts offer protection. This discipline connects the climber to the rock and the environment in a way that no other form of climbing does. If you're a climber with a love for self‑sufficiency and exploration, then the world's classic trad routes are calling your name.
In this article, we'll dive into some of the best classic trad routes that every climber should experience at least once in their lifetime. These routes aren't just popular because of their technical difficulty or exposure; they offer something more---historical significance, stunning natural beauty, or a legendary status that has made them an integral part of the climbing culture.
The Nose -- El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, USA
Why It's a Classic:
The Nose is often considered the most famous trad route in the world. Located on the iconic El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, it rises over 3,000 feet from the valley floor to the summit. With its combination of technical difficulty, historic significance, and sheer scale, it's a rite of passage for many climbers.
Key Features:
- Difficulty: 5.9 C2 (some pitches require aid climbing)
- Length: 31 pitches
- Famous Sections : The Great Roof, The King Swing, and the final summit scramble
- Significance: First climbed in 1958 by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, and George Whitmore, The Nose has become the symbol of big‑wall climbing.
The Experience:
Climbing The Nose is not just about technical skill, but about patience and endurance. Climbers spend multiple days on the wall, making it an expedition‑style adventure. The views from the ledges, the exposure, and the sense of accomplishment upon reaching the summit make it a dream climb for many.
Royal Arches -- Yosemite National Park, USA
Why It's a Classic:
Royal Arches offers a quintessential Yosemite climbing experience without the massive commitment of some other routes in the park. This is a beautiful multi‑pitch route that combines sustained crack climbing, some easy face climbing, and an incredible view of the Yosemite Valley.
Key Features:
- Difficulty: 5.10a
- Length: 16 pitches
- Famous Sections : The final section of the climb, where the rock arcs in an almost perfect curve to create an arch shape.
The Experience:
The Royal Arches route provides a mix of crack and face climbing, making it perfect for climbers looking to experience the variety that trad climbing has to offer. The final summit view is one of the best in Yosemite, making this a climb that's both challenging and rewarding.
The Diamond -- Longs Peak, Colorado, USA
Why It's a Classic:
The Diamond on Longs Peak is often considered one of the best alpine trad climbs in North America. The route is known for its steep, sustained climbing and its exposure, offering both technical challenges and breathtaking views of the Colorado Rockies.
Key Features:
- Difficulty : 5.9+ (for the standard route, but can vary)
- Length: 14 pitches
- Famous Sections : The upper pitches are highly exposed and require excellent crack climbing and route finding.
The Experience:
The Diamond is an alpine adventure that combines trad climbing with mountaineering. It offers a full day of climbing, with a summit that stands at over 14,000 feet. The climb demands solid technique and endurance, and the exposure on the upper wall adds to the thrill. The descent can be as challenging as the ascent, and it requires careful planning.
The Old Man of Hoy -- Orkney Islands, Scotland
Why It's a Classic:
The Old Man of Hoy is a sea stack off the coast of Orkney and one of the most iconic climbs in the world, and for good reason. With an impressive 450‑foot vertical ascent, it combines the drama of climbing a sea cliff with the beauty of the Scottish landscape.
Key Features:
- Difficulty: 5.4
- Length: 1 pitch (but the exposure and the atmosphere make it a multi‑day experience)
- Famous Sections : The start of the climb, where the route leads directly up from the sea, and the exposure from the top, with waves crashing below.
The Experience:
Climbing The Old Man of Hoy is as much about the setting and the journey as it is about the climbing itself. The combination of exposure, breathtaking views, and the feeling of standing atop a sea stack makes this a climb that should be on any serious trad climber's bucket list. However, it's a climb that requires careful planning and the right weather conditions.
Crack of Doom -- Mount Ruins, Australia
Why It's a Classic:
Crack of Doom on Mount Ruins is one of the best cracks in Australia, and it offers an ideal blend of crack‑climbing technique and exposure. The route follows an enormous crack in the rock that offers plenty of protection but also demands precise footwork and solid trad skills.
Key Features:
- Difficulty: 5.11b
- Length: 6 pitches
- Famous Sections : The crack itself is both technical and physical, requiring excellent jamming skills.
The Experience:
Climbing the Crack of Doom is a true trad experience. The route is sustained, with several cruxes that test your climbing ability and endurance. The exposure on the upper section, combined with the unique geology of the mountain, makes this climb a must for any crack climber.
The North Face of the Matterhorn -- Zermatt, Switzerland
Why It's a Classic:
The North Face of the Matterhorn is one of the most iconic peaks in the world, presenting a challenging alpine trad climb with a history steeped in climbing lore. Its steepness, rock quality, and alpine conditions make this one of the most sought‑after climbs for climbers looking for adventure in the Alps.
Key Features:
- Difficulty: 5.8 (though conditions can change, making it more difficult)
- Length: 1,200 meters
- Famous Sections : The technical mixed climbing in the upper part, which combines rock and ice climbing.
The Experience:
Climbing the north face of the Matterhorn is an expedition in itself. The conditions here are often harsh, and it requires a climber to have not just trad climbing skills but also experience in alpine environments. The route demands a high level of fitness and mental fortitude, but reaching the summit of the Matterhorn is a rewarding and unforgettable experience.
Eliminate A -- Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, USA
Why It's a Classic:
Eliminate A is one of the most famous trad routes in the U.S., located in the stunning Eldorado Canyon. It offers everything that trad climbing enthusiasts dream of: exposed climbing, steep rock, and sustained crack climbing. The route is known for its beautiful rock and the quality of its gear placements.
Key Features:
- Difficulty: 5.10a
- Length: 6 pitches
- Famous Sections: The exposed traverse near the top, offering views of the canyon below.
The Experience:
Eliminate A is a quintessential trad climb, offering a range of climbing techniques, from finger cracks to face climbing. The route's exposure, combined with its rock quality and the stunning location, makes it a must‑do for any experienced trad climber. The approach is relatively short, but the climbing is both challenging and rewarding.
Scotsman's Traverse -- The Isle of Skye, Scotland
Why It's a Classic:
Scotsman's Traverse offers some of the most beautiful and remote trad climbing in the world, and it is one of the finest routes on the Isle of Skye. The route provides spectacular views over the rugged landscape of Skye and involves a variety of climbing styles, including chimney and crack climbing.
Key Features:
- Difficulty: 5.10a
- Length: 9 pitches
- Famous Sections : The chimney pitch is particularly fun, with the route navigating through a narrow, airy crack in the rock.
The Experience:
Scotsman's Traverse provides both technical and aesthetic challenges, with a mix of climbing techniques. The rock quality is superb, and the stunning vistas make this one of the most memorable climbs in Scotland. It's a beautiful route for climbers who want to experience both adventure and beauty.
Conclusion
These classic trad routes each offer something unique to climbers, whether it's the beauty of the landscape, the challenge of the climb, or the historical significance of the route. From the towering granite walls of Yosemite to the remote sea stacks of Scotland, these climbs embody the spirit of adventure that makes trad climbing so special. Each route presents its own set of challenges and rewards, but all are worthy of a place on the bucket list of any serious trad climber. If you're ready to push your limits and experience the best of what climbing has to offer, these classic trad routes should be on your radar.