Climbing steep, jug‑filled cracks can feel like a great workout for your forearms, but it also puts a lot of strain on the flexor tendons that run along the inside of your elbows. Tendonitis is one of the most common overuse injuries for crack climbers, especially when you're pushing hard on small hand‑jams or finger stacks. A smart warm‑up doesn't just get you pumped for the session---it prepares the tendons, muscles, and nervous system so you can climb harder while keeping inflammation at bay.
Below is a step‑by‑step warm‑up routine centered on mobility, activation, progressive loading, and tendon‑specific conditioning . The sequence can be run in about 15‑20 minutes and is adaptable for all fitness levels.
General Mobility & Joint Prep (3‑5 min)
| Exercise | Reps / Time | Key Points |
|---|---|---|
| Arm Circles (small → large) | 10 forward, 10 backward | Keep shoulders relaxed, avoid shrugging. |
| Wrist Flexor/Extensor Stretch | 30 s each side | Pull fingers back gently; hold the stretch, don't bounce. |
| Elbow "Figure‑8" | 10 each direction | Imagine drawing a figure‑8 with your forearm; keep the motion smooth. |
| Shoulder "Pass‑Throughs" with a PVC pipe or broom | 10 reps | Maintain a wide grip; focus on a pain‑free range of motion. |
| Thoracic Rotations (seated or on all‑fours) | 8 each side | Open the chest, which helps keep the arms in a functional position. |
Why it matters: Warm joints increase synovial fluid, reducing friction on the tendons that will bear the load during crack climbing.
Neural Activation & Light Cardio (2‑3 min)
- Jumping Jacks or Light Skipping -- 30 seconds
- Dynamic "Hang‑and‑Release" on a low‑grade jug -- 5 seconds hang, 5 seconds rest, repeat 4×
Purpose: Raise core temperature, get the nervous system firing, and introduce a gentle forearm load without fatigue.
Forearm & Grip Specific Activation (4‑6 min)
| Exercise | Sets | Reps / Duration | Load / Modification |
|---|---|---|---|
| Open‑hand "Dead‑hang" on a jug | 2 | 10 s hang, 20 s rest | Use a large edge; keep fingers relaxed (open‑hand). |
| Tendon‑glide "Finger Slides" | 2 | 8--10 slow slides each hand | Slide from fully extended fingers to a relaxed curl, mimicking a jam. |
| Rubber Band Finger Extensions | 2 | 12‑15 reps each hand | Place a light band around the fingers, open against resistance. |
| Half‑crimp "Micro‑hang" on a shallow pocket (optional for advanced climbers) | 2 | 6 s hang, 30 s rest | Keep the crimp shallow; focus on smooth loading. |
Why : Gradually loads the flexor tendons and the extensor muscles that balance them, priming the tissue for higher forces later.
Progressive Crack‑Specific Moves (5‑7 min)
-
Easy Crack Simulations on a Low Wall
-
Incremental Load Increase
-
"Pump‑down" Mini‑Interval
Purpose : This segment mimics the exact loading pattern of aggressive crack climbing, allowing the tendons to adapt without sudden overload. By gradually narrowing the crack and adding a controlled pump, you condition the tissue while monitoring for any pain signals.
Cool‑Down Mobility & Tendon Health (2‑3 min)
| Exercise | Duration | Tips |
|---|---|---|
| Forearm "Wrist Roller" (light weight) | 30 s each direction | Use a small weight; roll slowly to promote blood flow. |
| Passive Finger Stretch (against a wall) | 30 s each hand | Extend fingers, press gently into the wall, feel a stretch in the forearm flexors. |
| Elbow Flexor Massage (self‑myofascial release) | 30 s each side | Use a tennis ball or TheraBand; roll the elbow crease and upper forearm. |
Why : A brief cool‑down helps flush metabolic waste from the tendons and maintains flexibility, reducing the risk of post‑climb soreness that can develop into chronic irritation.
Quick Checklist Before You Hit the Cracks
- Pain scale check -- If any move feels >2/10 on a 0‑10 pain scale, back off and reassess.
- Hydration -- Even mild dehydration can increase tendon stiffness.
- Grip variation -- Mix open‑hand, half‑crimp, and fist jams within the session to avoid repetitive strain.
- Rest intervals -- On hard projects, give yourself at least 2‑3 minutes of complete rest between attempts.
Final Thoughts
Aggressive crack climbing is a beautiful blend of technique, power, and mental focus, but the repetitive jamming motion can be a recipe for tendon overload. Incorporating a systematic warm‑up---starting broad with joint mobility, moving into forearm activation, and finally tackling crack‑specific progressions---creates a protective "tendon‑conditioning ladder."
Stick to the sequence, listen to your body, and you'll see fewer flare‑ups, longer sessions, and better performance on those steep, awe‑inspiring cracks. Happy climbing!