Rock climbing is a thrilling and challenging sport that demands a mix of physical strength, mental endurance, and technique. One of the most important factors affecting your climbing experience, especially when you're starting out or progressing through the ranks, is the type of climbing holds you use. Selecting the right holds for your skill level can make a massive difference in how efficiently and safely you climb.
In this guide, we'll explore the different types of climbing holds, how to choose the best ones based on your skill level, and how to understand their unique features and applications.
Types of Climbing Holds
Climbing holds come in various shapes and sizes, each offering a different challenge to climbers. Below are the primary types of holds you will encounter in rock climbing:
1. Jugs
Jugs are large, easy-to-grip holds that are perfect for beginners. They are often large enough to fully envelop the fingers and can even accommodate an entire hand. Due to their simplicity, they are excellent for building confidence and technique.
- Skill Level: Beginner to Intermediate
- Best Use : Found on easy routes and lower‑angle sections, jugs are used for rest positions or making simple moves.
2. Crimps
Crimps are small, sharp holds that require the climber to use only the tips of their fingers. This type of hold demands greater finger strength and precision, making it a bit more challenging than jugs.
- Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced
- Best Use : Crimps are commonly found on steeper and more technical routes where finger strength is key. They challenge your finger flexors and require efficient body positioning.
3. Slopers
Slopers are holds that are slanted, offering little to no positive grip. Climbers have to rely on body tension and technique to stay on these holds, as the surface is often smooth and rounded. While they may not seem very challenging at first glance, slopers require good technique to utilize properly.
- Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced
- Best Use : Typically found on overhung or vertical routes. Slopers test your ability to generate body tension and maintain balance.
4. Pinches
Pinches require the climber to squeeze the hold between the thumb and fingers, creating a gripping action. The strength required for this type of hold can vary depending on the size and shape of the pinch.
- Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced
- Best Use : Pinches are commonly found on moderate to difficult routes and can be challenging on vertical or slightly overhung terrain.
5. Pockets
Pockets are holds with one or more holes that allow you to insert your fingers or hand into. The size and depth of the pocket affect the difficulty level. Some pockets are big enough for the entire hand, while others are small and require precise finger placement.
- Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced
- Best Use : Found on more technical routes. Pockets can be tricky because they often demand precision and finger strength, especially on smaller holds.
6. Volumes
Volumes are large, three‑dimensional shapes that are added to the wall to create unique features. They may not have a defined "grip" like other holds but can still be used to generate leverage or add complexity to the route. Volumes are often used in modern bouldering problems to force climbers to think creatively.
- Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced
- Best Use: Volumes are commonly used on complex routes and bouldering problems, especially when creating a dynamic or off‑angle challenge.
Choosing Climbing Holds for Your Skill Level
Each skill level in climbing will benefit from different types of holds. Choosing holds that align with your experience and strength will help you develop technique while preventing frustration or injury. Below is a breakdown of which holds are best suited for each skill level.
Beginner Climbers
For beginners, the main focus should be on building confidence and mastering basic climbing techniques. You'll want to stick to easier routes and holds that are large and forgiving.
- Best Holds : Jugs, big slopers, and large pinches.
- Why : These holds will allow you to focus on body positioning, footwork, and basic technique without having to worry about holding onto small or difficult features. Large jugs are especially great for learning to relax your grip and use your body weight to stay on the wall.
Intermediate Climbers
Intermediate climbers should start to tackle more varied and technical routes that challenge their grip strength, finger endurance, and body tension. As you progress, you'll begin to deal with smaller, more challenging holds, while also working on improving your footwork and overall technique.
- Best Holds : Crimps, slopers, pockets, and medium‑sized pinches.
- Why : These holds will start to introduce more complexity and require you to work on finger strength, balance, and body positioning. Crimps and pockets, in particular, will challenge your grip and precision. Slopers will force you to use your whole body to maintain balance and tension.
Advanced Climbers
At the advanced level, climbers are often faced with steep, overhung routes or technical rock faces that demand precise movement and high levels of strength. The holds are generally smaller, and the difficulty lies not just in holding the grip but also in finding efficient body positions to stay on the wall.
- Best Holds : Small crimps, micro‑pockets, tiny slopers, pinches, and volumes.
- Why : Advanced holds require exceptional finger strength, precision, and the ability to maintain body tension in difficult positions. Climbers at this level must also master the use of volumes for leveraging body positioning and achieving dynamic movements.
Understanding Hold Placement and How It Affects Difficulty
The way climbing holds are placed on a route can drastically impact its difficulty. Experienced route setters often combine various holds to create routes that are both challenging and enjoyable. Here's how hold placement plays a role:
1. Overhangs and Steep Routes
Steep and overhung routes put more pressure on your upper body and require more strength to pull yourself up, making holds like slopers, pinches, and small crimps more challenging. The steeper the angle, the more you'll need to rely on your fingers and arms.
2. Vertical Routes
Vertical routes often have a combination of holds like jugs, crimpers, and slopers. You can also encounter a few technical moves involving small pinches and pockets. These routes may be less physically demanding but more technique‑driven, requiring efficient footwork and controlled movement.
3. Slab Climbing
On slabs, the challenge comes from finding holds that are less prominent and require more footwork and balance. These types of routes often rely on slopers, pinches, and volumes, which require good body tension and positioning to avoid relying too heavily on your hands.
Conclusion
Choosing the right climbing holds for your skill level is essential to developing your climbing technique, strength, and confidence. Understanding the different types of holds and how to use them will help you tackle increasingly challenging routes and improve your climbing abilities.
Remember, while physical strength is important, technique and efficient use of holds will get you further in your climbing journey. Whether you're a beginner or an experienced climber, the key is to challenge yourself at the right pace and enjoy the learning process.