Climbing is a sport filled with unique terminology, much of which can be bewildering to newcomers. Whether you're bouldering at your local gym or scaling an outdoor rock face, understanding climbing lingo is essential for communication, safety, and overall enjoyment. The language of climbing has evolved to encompass a wide variety of techniques, gear, and specific movements. From the simplest hold to the most complex maneuvers, climbing lingo serves as a universal language that unites climbers across the globe.
In this article, we will break down some of the most common and important climbing terms, ranging from the basic holds to more advanced techniques and terms that are crucial for understanding the sport.
Crimp 🔎
The crimp is one of the most basic handholds in climbing. It refers to a type of grip where your fingers are bent at a sharp angle, and you use the pads of your fingers to hold onto a small edge. This technique requires strong finger strength and is often used on holds that are too small to fully wrap around.
Key Features:
- A two-finger crimp involves using your index and middle fingers.
- A full crimp means all fingers are involved, but they are not fully extended.
Common Use:
- Crimps are often encountered on sport routes or bouldering problems where small holds are prevalent.
Sloper 🔎
A sloper is a type of hold that slopes away from you, making it difficult to grip with your fingers. Unlike a crimp or pinch, you typically rely on the palm of your hand and your entire arm to hold onto a sloper. They can be particularly challenging because they offer little to no positive edge, and you must use a combination of body positioning and strength to maintain your grip.
Key Features:
- Slopers are rounded , with no sharp edges.
- You often need to engage your whole body to maintain stability.
Common Use:
- Found in both bouldering and sport climbing , slopers challenge a climber's body tension and core strength.
Pinch 🔎
The pinch is a type of hold where you grip an edge between your thumb and fingers, much like pinching something between two fingers. Pinches can vary in size and are often used in conjunction with pinch grips ---a vital technique for holding onto edges or volumes that are not suitable for crimping.
Key Features:
- Involves using your thumb and index finger to squeeze a hold.
- Pinches can be found on volumes or larger holds.
Common Use:
- Pinches are frequently found in bouldering problems, especially on overhung routes where small holds and volume features are common.
Dyno 🔎
A dyno (short for "dynamic move") is a climbing move that requires explosive strength and jumping to reach a hold that is out of arm's reach. A dyno typically involves a lot of momentum and requires a climber to push off from their feet and jump to the next hold.
Key Features:
- Often involves both hands leaving the wall at once.
- Requires significant core and upper body strength.
Common Use:
- Dynos are most common in bouldering problems and are used when holds are too far apart to reach with a simple reach.
Mantle 🔎
A mantle is a type of move used to transition from a low hold to a higher one, typically involving using the feet for leverage while pushing yourself up. It is often used in situations where the climber needs to lift their body from a ledge or over an obstacle.
Key Features:
- Often involves pressing down with your hands while pushing up with your feet.
- Typically performed on slab or overhangs.
Common Use:
- Mantles are common in both sport climbing and bouldering , especially in routes with ledges or overhangs.
Jug 🔎
A jug is a large, positive handhold that climbers can easily grip. Jug holds are typically large enough to provide a comfortable grip and can be used to rest or recover during a climb. They are highly sought after during difficult routes.
Key Features:
- Large enough to fully grasp with your hand.
- Often provides an opportunity for resting.
Common Use:
- Jug holds are common in bouldering and sport climbing , especially in overhung or roof sections where easier holds are needed.
Gaston 🔎
A Gaston is a climbing technique in which you push outward with your arm while keeping the hand in a sideways position. This move is used when a climber needs to move to a hold that is out to the side of their body rather than straight ahead.
Key Features:
Common Use:
- Gastons are used in both bouldering and sport climbing , particularly on routes with sideways holds.
Barn Door 🔎
A barn door is a situation where a climber is out of balance and has one hand or foot on a hold while the other side of their body swings away from the wall. The term refers to the flapping of a barn door as the climber's body swings sideways.
Key Features:
- A balance issue where one side of the body moves away from the wall.
- Often occurs when core strength or footwork is not optimal.
Common Use:
- The barn door move is often found in bouldering problems and sport climbing routes with asymmetric holds.
Arete 🔎
An arete is the edge or corner of a rock face, where two walls meet. Climbers often use both sides of the arete for hands and feet to create balance and find holds.
Key Features:
- A sharp corner or edge.
- Requires technique to maintain balance.
Common Use:
- Aretes are common in both bouldering and sport climbing routes, often requiring precise footwork and body positioning.
Crux 🔎
The crux is the most difficult part of a climbing route, often considered the hardest move or section that will determine whether a climb is completed successfully. The crux can vary from one climber to another, but it is generally recognized as the key challenge in a route.
Key Features:
- Often involves technical moves or powerful maneuvers.
- Can vary greatly between climbers based on their strengths and techniques.
Common Use:
- Every climbing route or problem has a crux, but in bouldering and sport climbing, it is often the most talked-about part of the climb.
Conclusion
Understanding climbing lingo is essential for anyone who is serious about the sport. Whether you're just starting or you're looking to refine your climbing technique, knowing the proper terminology can help you communicate more effectively with other climbers and improve your performance. From the basic grips and holds to advanced moves like dynos and gastons, climbing terminology is designed to keep climbers on the same page while navigating the vertical world.
By familiarizing yourself with terms such as crimp , dyno , and mantle , you'll be better equipped to interpret routes, discuss strategies with climbing partners, and tackle a variety of climbing challenges. And remember, as you continue to climb, you'll naturally pick up more lingo along the way, enriching your climbing experience and becoming a part of the global climbing community.