Climbing is a dynamic and multifaceted sport that, at its core, is about overcoming physical and mental challenges. Whether you're scaling a rock wall in a gym or tackling a route outdoors, the language and terminology associated with climbing can be intricate. However, when it comes to outdoor climbing, there is a whole new set of terms and phrases that you'll likely hear as you make your way up the crag. These terms not only reflect the specific techniques and challenges of outdoor climbing but also reveal the communal and cultural aspects of the climbing community.
In this guide, we'll explore some of the key outdoor climbing terms you should know, from basic terminology to more advanced lingo, and what they mean in the context of real‑world outdoor climbing.
The Crag
In the world of outdoor climbing, the term "crag" refers to a natural rock formation or cliff face where climbers gather to climb. The crag could range from a small outcrop to a towering cliff. Climbers often refer to the specific crag they are at, like "the crag near the lake" or "the crag on the east side."
Key Terms Related to Crags:
- Bouldering Crag -- A smaller area used for bouldering, usually not requiring ropes.
- Sport Crag -- A crag equipped with fixed anchors, bolts, or sport climbing routes.
- Trad Crag -- A crag that features traditional climbing routes, requiring gear placement for protection.
Approach
The "approach" refers to the path or trail climbers take to get to the base of a climbing route. Depending on the crag, this can range from a short walk to a multi‑hour hike. The approach is often a key part of the climbing experience, as it sets the tone for the day and may test climbers' endurance before they even begin their ascent.
Common Approach Terms:
- Approach Shoes -- Lightweight shoes used for hiking to the crag.
- Approach Trail -- The path that leads from the parking area or base camp to the climbing area.
Choss
Choss is a term climbers use to describe poor‑quality rock. It refers to loose, crumbly rock that may not provide secure holds or be safe to climb on. Climbers will often avoid chossy rock because of the danger of loose holds breaking off during the climb.
Key Signs of Choss:
- Loose Holds -- Rocks or pieces that are not firmly embedded and could easily come off.
- Flaky Rock -- Thin layers of rock that can break apart easily.
Beta
"Beta" refers to the information or advice that a climber receives about a particular route, such as which holds to use or the best way to approach a difficult section. Beta can come from various sources, including guidebooks, online forums, or other climbers on the crag.
Types of Beta:
- Full Beta -- Detailed information about every move on the route.
- Hinted Beta -- A subtle clue about a move or sequence without giving everything away.
- On‑the‑Spot Beta -- Real‑time advice or tips from fellow climbers at the crag.
Onsight
In climbing, "onsight" refers to completing a route on your first attempt without prior knowledge of the climb and without receiving any help or advice (i.e., no beta). An onsight is considered a significant achievement because it requires both technical skill and mental focus.
Related Terms:
- Flash -- Similar to onsight, but the climber may have seen someone else complete the route or received beta before trying it.
- Redpoint -- Successfully climbing a route after having practiced or attempted it, with or without falls.
Gear Placement
Unlike in the gym where bolts and fixed anchors are typically used, outdoor climbers often rely on gear placement for protection while climbing. These placements are made using various pieces of climbing gear, such as cams, nuts, and slings, which protect the climber in case of a fall.
Key Gear Terms:
- Cams -- Spring‑loaded devices that expand within cracks to secure the climber's protection.
- Nuts -- Wedges of metal used to protect a climber on certain types of rock faces.
- Nut Tool -- A small tool used to remove stuck nuts from cracks.
- Quickdraw -- A piece of gear that connects the climber's rope to the protection bolts along the route.
- Chalk Bag -- A bag used to hold chalk, which climbers use to keep their hands dry.
Crux
The "crux" is the most difficult section of a climb. It's often where climbers face the highest level of challenge, requiring the most technical skill, strength, and focus. Once the crux is passed, the rest of the route is typically easier. The crux can come at the beginning, middle, or end of a route.
Crux‑Related Terms:
- Physical Crux -- The section that requires the most physical effort, such as a difficult move or sequence.
- Mental Crux -- A psychological challenge, where fear or doubt makes the climb difficult, even if it's not technically hard.
Slab, Overhang, and Roof
These are terms climbers use to describe the type of rock features they are climbing.
- Slab -- A gentle, low‑angle rock face that requires balance and friction rather than strength. Slab climbing can feel intimidating due to its focus on precision and footwork.
- Overhang -- A section of rock that juts out horizontally, requiring climbers to pull themselves up while undercutting the rock.
- Roof -- An overhang that extends to the point of becoming a horizontal ceiling, requiring climbers to use both hands and feet to cling onto the rock.
Projecting
When a climber is "projecting" a route, it means they are repeatedly attempting to climb it, working through the sections that are difficult for them, often over several days or weeks. A project is a climb that the climber has not yet completed but is committed to achieving.
Projecting Tips:
- Working the Crux -- Focusing on a specific challenging section of a route and refining technique.
- Taking Turns -- Some climbers work together to "project" a route, taking turns attempting different sections.
Send/Sending
To "send" a route means to successfully complete it, either on the first try (onsight or flash) or after multiple attempts (redpoint). The term "sending" implies that the climber has overcome the route's challenges and achieved their goal.
Related Terms:
- Send It -- A term used to encourage someone to give a route their best effort and send it.
- Sent -- When a climber has completed a route successfully.
Wild Country and Trad Climbing Terminology
In traditional (trad) climbing, climbers use specialized gear for protection. The terms "wild country" or "trad" often refer to climbs where the protection is not fixed but placed by the climber as they go up.
Wild Country Terms:
- Pitches -- A section of a trad route, usually separated by belay points. A "multi‑pitch" climb refers to a route that requires several belays.
- Belay -- The act of securing a climber with ropes to ensure safety in the event of a fall. The person who belays is known as the belayer.
The Summit and Descent
The goal of most outdoor climbs is to reach the summit, the highest point of the crag. However, the descent can be as challenging as the ascent. Some routes require rappelling (abseiling) or down‑climbing, which involves retracing your steps to safely return to the base.
Descent Terms:
- Rappel -- A controlled descent down a rope, often used after completing a multi‑pitch climb.
- Downclimb -- Descending a route without ropes, usually on less technical terrain.
Conclusion
Understanding the outdoor climbing terms used on the crag is essential for anyone who wants to fully immerse themselves in the sport. These terms are not just about climbing technique but also about being part of the climbing community. The crag is a place where climbers share experiences, give advice, and motivate each other, and understanding the language can help you feel more connected to that community.
Climbing outdoors is about more than just physical skill; it's about embracing the environment, respecting the challenges of nature, and sharing experiences with fellow climbers. So, next time you're out on the rock, listen closely for these terms---you'll find they give a whole new dimension to your climbing adventure.