Creating a custom training wall focused on smearing and heel-hooking is an excellent way to improve your climbing technique at home. These two moves---smearing (using your feet to press against the wall rather than relying on edges or holds) and heel-hooking (placing a heel on a hold to generate upward force)---are essential for a variety of climbing styles, particularly on steep and slabby terrain. By constructing a dedicated training wall, you can practice these movements consistently and build the necessary muscle memory. Here's a guide on how to build a wall designed specifically for these techniques.
Choose Your Space and Wall Angle
The first step is selecting an appropriate location for your training wall. Ideally, you want a space that has:
- Height and Width : A space with at least 8-10 feet of height and enough width for maneuvering. This gives you room to practice both smearing and heel-hooking.
- Slope or Angle : To work on smearing and heel-hooking, you'll want to incorporate some steep angles. A slight overhang or a slab wall with a 20-30° angle is ideal for smearing. For heel-hooking, adding a steeper section or vertical wall can mimic the angles you'll face in real climbing situations.
Make sure the space has enough clearance and is free of obstructions, so you have room to move safely.
Build the Frame and Structure
To create a stable, long-lasting training wall, you'll need a sturdy frame. Here's how to start:
- Materials : Use 2x4s or 2x6s for the main frame and support beams. Plywood (3/4 inch) is a good choice for the climbing surface.
- Wall Support : If you plan on an overhang or steep section, reinforce the frame with additional braces. The structure needs to be solid enough to handle your weight as you practice smearing and heel-hooking techniques.
- Screws and Nails : Use heavy-duty screws (not nails) to assemble the frame and secure the plywood.
Create the Climbing Surface
The next step is to build the actual climbing surface, keeping in mind the types of features that will allow you to practice smearing and heel-hooking:
- Smooth Surface for Smearing : For smearing, you want large, flat, smooth sections of the wall. Sand down the plywood to minimize splinters. If you want a more advanced surface, consider adding textured paint or rubber sheeting for a more realistic feel.
- Hold Placement for Heel-Hooking : Include horizontal features or volumes on your wall where you can practice heel-hooks. These could be large, sloped volumes that you can hook your heel onto, mimicking real climbing holds. You can create these features using wood or purchase pre-made volumes.
- Small and Medium Features : Mix in a few smaller holds and edges (like jugs or slopers) to practice transitioning between different footwork techniques, such as smearing with your foot while still engaging with a hold. However, make sure there's enough focus on the movement without relying too heavily on holds.
Install Adjustable Holds and Volumes
For a more versatile training wall, incorporate adjustable holds and volumes. This allows you to modify the layout as you progress:
- T-nuts : Install T-nuts into the plywood at regular intervals. These nuts will let you screw in climbing holds and volumes wherever you need them, making it easy to change the wall configuration for different types of footwork training.
- Adjustable Volumes : Consider purchasing or building adjustable volumes that can be placed on different sections of the wall. These volumes provide the perfect surface for heel-hooking practice.
Focus on Specific Training Areas
Now that the structure is in place, focus on creating climbing problems that emphasize smearing and heel-hooking:
- Smearing Routes : For smearing, create routes or "problems" that rely on the ability to keep your feet flat and engaged with the wall. Use features like low-angle slabs, where you can only use your feet for upward force and balance. Add in occasional foot switches to practice different smearing techniques.
- Heel-Hooking Routes : For heel-hooking, set problems that require you to use your feet to generate upward movement. Set overhangs or steep walls where you can place your heel on holds or volumes. Incorporate dynamic moves where you must heel-hook and then reach or pull with your hands, replicating real-world movements.
- Mixed Routes : Combine both smearing and heel-hooking in your training problems. For example, start by smearing up the wall to a volume where you need to execute a heel-hook, then return to smearing.
Safety Considerations
Since you'll be training movements that require body tension and specific foot placements, safety is important:
- Crash Mat : Always have a crash mat or soft landing area at the base of the wall. This provides protection in case you fall, especially when practicing dynamic moves or unfamiliar heel-hook techniques.
- Spotting : If you're training with a partner, make sure to spot each other during challenging or high-fall-risk moves.
Progressively Increase Difficulty
As you get more comfortable with smearing and heel-hooking, increase the difficulty of your training wall:
- Angles and Steepness : Gradually increase the overhang or slab angle to challenge your technique further. You can add volumes or even small overhangs to force you to rely more on footwork.
- Footwork Challenges : Place fewer and smaller holds to encourage more precise foot placement. Over time, you'll develop the ability to smear and heel-hook with minimal reliance on large holds.
- Dynamic Moves: Incorporate dynamic movements where you need to shift weight quickly or perform controlled falls. These types of problems will help with the timing and body tension required in real climbing situations.
Maintain and Adjust the Wall
As you progress, don't forget to maintain and adjust your wall to keep it challenging:
- Changing Problems : Regularly change the layout of holds and volumes to keep the challenges fresh.
- Texture and Wear : After heavy use, sand down any rough edges or smooth areas to keep the texture consistent.
- New Features : Consider adding new types of holds, volumes, or adjustable features as your skills improve.
Building a custom training wall dedicated to smearing and heel-hooking is a rewarding project that can significantly improve your climbing technique. By creating a wall with adjustable features, smooth surfaces, and varied angles, you can practice these essential footwork techniques on your own time. With consistent training, your footwork precision and climbing efficiency will improve, making you a stronger and more versatile climber.