Dynos (dynamic leaps) are the most exhilarating---and sometimes dreaded---moves on overhanging boulders. When executed well, they feel like a perfect burst of power; when mishandled, they leave you sore, frustrated, or even injured. Below is a practical, step‑by‑step guide to nailing those explosive moves while keeping strain to a minimum.
Understand the Mechanics
| Component | What to Focus On | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Center of Mass (CoM) | Keep your CoM close to the wall before the jump. | A low, tight CoM gives you a reliable launch platform and reduces the need for excessive arm swing. |
| Skeleton‑First Power | Initiate the movement from the hips and legs, not the arms. | The legs are far stronger than the forearms; using them first prevents shoulder over‑use. |
| Trajectory Planning | Visualize a smooth arc rather than a straight line. | A controlled arc distributes force evenly across joints, reducing peak impact. |
| Landing Zone | Aim for a stable foothold or a "soft" spot on the hold. | A precise landing reduces shock absorption needed from the arms and wrists. |
Build the Right Physical Foundation
2.1 Leg Strength & Explosiveness
- Weighted Squats (3 sets × 5 reps, 80 % 1RM) -- builds raw power.
- Box Jumps (3--4 sets × 6 reps, box height ~30 % of your max vertical) -- trains rapid hip extension.
- Single‑Leg Hops (2 sets × 8 reps each leg) -- improves balance and unilateral force production.
2.2 Core Stability
- Hanging Knee‑Raises (3 sets × 10) -- reinforces a tight core while hanging.
- Plank Variations (front, side, opposite‑arm/leg lifts) -- develop anti‑rotation control essential for clean launches.
2.3 Pulling Power (but not over‑reliance)
- Weighted Pull‑Ups (3 sets × 3--5) -- maintain upper‑body strength for the catch.
- Lock‑Off Holds (3 × 5 sec on a mid‑range hold) -- trains the forearms to absorb the landing without "crashing."
2.4 Mobility & Flexibility
- Shoulder Dislocates with a PVC pipe -- keep the rotator cuff supple.
- Thoracic Spine Rotations -- improve the ability to swing the arms without compressing the lower back.
Warm‑Up the Specific Move
- General Cardio -- 5‑10 minutes of light jogging or jump rope.
- Dynamic Stretching -- arm circles, leg swings, hip openers (10 reps each).
- Movement‑Specific Drills
The warm‑up should mimic the sequence of a dyno: shoulder engagement → hip drive → arm swing → catch.
Technique Breakdown
4.1 Pre‑Clip (The Setup)
- Foot Placement : Position your feet as low as possible while maintaining balance. The further your toes are from the wall, the more leverage you gain.
- Body Tension : Engage the core and lock the shoulders (slightly above "dead‑hang" position). This creates a stable spring board.
4.2 The Launch
- Hip Hinge -- Bend knees slightly, swing hips back as if loading a spring.
- Arm Swing -- Pull the "lead" arm (the one that will catch) down and back, then explode it forward. The swing should be fluid, not a jerky yank.
- Explode -- Push through the heels, extending hips, knees, and ankles simultaneously. Think "jumping off a box" rather than "throwing your body".
4.3 The Flight
- Keep the body compact; slight tuck reduces rotational inertia and makes the catch easier.
- Eyes on the Target -- Visual focus stabilizes the trajectory and helps you land precisely.
4.4 The Catch
- Soft Hands -- Aim to "grab" the hold, not slap it.
- Lock‑Off -- Immediately engage the lats and biceps to arrest the fall; keep elbows slightly bent, not locked.
- Foot Adjustment -- As the arms lock, bring the feet to a stable foothold or at least a heel hook if possible.
Progression Plan (From Safe to Bold)
| Stage | Goal | Sample Exercise |
|---|---|---|
| A. Static Power | Master hip‑drive and arm‑swing separately. | Dead‑hang pull‑up + squat jump combo (3 × 5). |
| B. Low‑Height Dynos | Jump 30--40 % of the distance to the target hold. | Use a shallow overhang; practice 3‑5 reps, full rest. |
| C. Mid‑Range | Reach 60--80 % of the full dyno distance. | Add a small "landing" hold to improve precision. |
| D. Full Dyno | Execute the move on the actual route. | Only attempt after successful B‑stage on the same route. |
Key rule: Only move to the next stage when you can land three consecutive reps without pain or excessive shaking.
Managing Fatigue & Strain
- Micro‑Rest Between Attempts -- 30‑60 seconds of hanging on a low jug lets the forearms recover while keeping the upper body engaged.
- Breathing -- Exhale sharply on the launch; inhale on the catch. Proper breath control limits unnecessary tension.
- Grip Rotation -- Alternate between "crimp", "open‑hand", and "pinch" grips across attempts to avoid over‑loading a single finger configuration.
Recovery Strategies
- Ice the Forearms (10‑15 min) after a session of heavy dynos.
- Active Recovery -- Light cardio or yoga the next day to flush metabolites.
- Mobility Work -- Shoulder dislocates, banded external rotations, and thoracic extensions.
- Nutrition -- Prioritize protein (≈1.6 g/kg body weight) and anti‑inflammatory foods (turmeric, omega‑3s) to aid tissue repair.
Mental Game
- Visualization -- Spend 2‑3 minutes before each attempt picturing a smooth, explosive launch and a firm catch.
- Commitment Cue -- Pick a word ("launch!") to shout just before you explode; it forces you to commit fully, reducing the tendency to "half‑jump."
- Risk Assessment -- Know your limits; if the distance feels >90 % of your maximum leg power, consider a safer variation (e.g., a "campus" move) until you build more strength.
Common Pitfalls & How to Fix Them
| Pitfall | Symptom | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Over‑relying on Arms | Shoulder fatigue, slipping. | Shift focus to leg drive; practice "leg‑first" drills. |
| Under‑tension in Core | Body swings wildly, missed catch. | Add plank variations; cue "tight belly button to spine" before launch. |
| Too High a Center of Mass | Overshooting the hold, landing hard. | Drop hips lower during set‑up; think "squat" not "stand". |
| Insufficient Rest | Grip cramping, poor form. | Adopt 2‑minute rest after each full‑dyno attempt (or until heart rate drops). |
Final Checklist Before a Dyno Attempt
- [ ] Warm‑up complete (general + specific).
- [ ] Core engaged, shoulders "active".
- [ ] Foot placement optimal and stable.
- [ ] Visualized the exact trajectory and catch.
- [ ] Breathing pattern rehearsed.
- [ ] Ready to commit---no hesitation.
If anything feels off, back off, re‑warm, or adjust the move. Mastery comes from consistent, quality practice , not from sheer bravado.
Takeaway: The dyno on an overhanging boulder is a blend of physics, physiology, and mental focus. By building leg power, maintaining a tight core, practicing precise technique, and respecting recovery, you'll launch confidently---and keep the strain where it belongs: in your muscles, not in your joints. Happy climbing!